Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
Oxygen recovery kinetics in the forearm flexors of multiple ability groups of rock climbers.
The purpose of this study was to determine muscle tissue oxidative capacity and recovery in intermediate, advanced, and elite rock climbers. Forty-four male participants performed (a) sustained and (b) intermittent contractions at 40% of maximal volitional contraction (MVC) on a sport-specific fingerboard until volitional fatigue. Near-infrared spectroscopy was used to assess muscle tissue oxyg...
متن کاملLumbrical tears in rock climbers.
Performance rock climbing places high demands on the hand and may lead to specific injuries. In a "one-finger-pocket" hold, the interphalangeal joints remain in 20-40 degrees flexion. To increase the maximum force of the holding finger by the quadriga effect, the interphalangeal joints of the adjacent fingers become almost maximally flexed. Holding a "one-finger-pocket" with the ring or small f...
متن کاملFingertip injuries in rock climbers.
The sport of rock climbing has undergone a significant change in recent times with technically harder climbs being attempted more often. This has meant that climbers have taken to more training including weight training, using artificial climbing walls and the more traditional 'bouldering' i.e. training on natural outcrops and boulders. This increase in standards has led to injuries associated ...
متن کاملChanges in EMG and Finger Force with Repeated Hangs from the Hands in Rock Climbers
The nature and degree of fatigue in muscles that control finger position during repeated sustained efforts in rock climbing have not been described. The purpose of this study was to identify changes in maximum hang time and forearm electromyogram (EMG) during repeated maximum duration hangs from a simulated rock feature. A second objective was to determine the effect of different recovery times...
متن کاملFinger injuries in extreme rock climbers. Assessment of high-resolution ultrasonography.
Dynamic high-resolution ultrasonography findings obtained in 34 extreme rock climbers with finger injuries were compared with those in 20 healthy volunteers. Thicknesses of the flexor tendon and A-2 flexor tendon pulley system were measured at the base of the proximal phalanx. The distance between the tendon and phalanx was evaluated with the finger in extension and in forced flexion as a measu...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: European Journal of Sport Science
سال: 2015
ISSN: 1746-1391,1536-7290
DOI: 10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198